Thursday, October 1, 2009

The Report Card: Lakme Fashion Week Spring/Summer 10!

Lakme Fashion Week S/S 10 has seen its end a week back but still a few designers with their specular collections linger in my mind.

I really admire the uniqueness of a bunch of designers who showcase every season at Fashion Week and among all the others i absolutely adored Rishta-Arjun Saluja and Gauri & Nainika. Anand Kabra, Kallol Dutta &Rehane equally took my breath away.

Rishta by Arjun Saluja took off in New York in 2000 and since then has leaped boundries. For the coming season he chalked out a structured collection that followed its title “The Melting Architecture” worked around solids and  geometric, smudgy and micro check prints in black, brown, grey and white for crepe, net, georgette and satin. The silhouettes moved into a complex scheme as ruffled, tiered, geometric butterfly blouses or long tubes with front ruffles were balanced by men’s abstract print dhoti and space age shirts or lungis. Arjun proved once again that his offering for each season is something quite spectacular and unconventional and while i watched the show i was left spellbound.

Anand Kabra, Spring/Summer 2010 collection titled “Kumari” at Lakme Fashion Week was inspired by a story of the two faces of a woman - pure and beautiful as a goddess or a temptress at other times. Anand’s theme came through in his creations, as he presented simple yet intricate work which reflected the two facades of his fashion statement.

Asymmetry was the basis of Anand’s creative story whether it was for collars, sleeves, hemlines, shoulders and even button closures. The motifs were constant – the diya, and tilakam or tikka in elongated or circular forms which appeared in print or shimmering gold or silver embroidery. * Still in awe!*

No other designer duo make women look as womanly as Gauri & Nainika.

Red, White & Black- the eternal colours were their colour palette. Moving away a little from their trademark gowns, the pair designed shorter hemlines for part of the show with interesting detailing on the garments. Roses bloomed on most of the amazingly tailored and finished creations in chiffon, satin and organza.

Kallol Dutta,  a budding young designer, who also has earned a degree for womenswear from the respected Central Saint Martins College, London is one creative bug who i always have my eye on. Keeping his brand in focus, he as usual drifted away from the conventional shine and bling by using natural fabrics and construction of the garments that are very characteristic of him. His prints are the aspect in his design that are always the center of attention and for S/S 10 his prints revolved around His and Her motif, Dragonflies and Bees. i absolutely loved the choice of colours which revolved around ecru, jade, pink black and beige.

Titled “Looks Like Love”, Rehane assured that the collections had all the trimmings and colours that go with the theme of the line. Restricting her designing skills to a short frothy dress collection with embroidery of different varieties on the garments; Rehane’s look was not only pretty but had that cute trendy element.

Embroidery was the focal point of the gathered, layered, minis, tubes, micro shorts and tops as the rose motif and laser cut work appeared on hemlines, neck, belts, yokes, skirts and bodices. Colours ranged from cream to rose, white, salmon pink, grey, red and blue for chiffon, organza and lots of tiny checks in red and white.

Needless to say, but i truly liked the dresses that she designed, simple, chic with loads of love !

This time Lakme Fashion week lacked the frenzy created by the accessory show which really dissapointed me to no end.
Was disappointed with many other designers especially the Finale but really enjoyed the new bunch of Gen Next Designers who set their foot on the ramp.
All in all, i was third time lucky to at least get to see some of the shows !

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